What 16 Years in the Dolomites Taught Me About Better Travel

If you had told me in 2010 how I would be traveling to the Dolomites sixteen years later, I would not have believed you. Not because the place has changed, but because I have.

The way Daragh and I approach a trip now is almost unrecognisable compared to that first visit. Some of that is experience. Some of it is practicality. All of it has made our trips better.

We Spent Years Staying in Apartments

For a long stretch of our Dolomites years, we rented apartments rather than staying in hotels. At the time it made complete sense. We wanted to settle in properly, to have a base that felt like ours rather than somewhere we were simply passing through. We liked having a kitchen. We liked being able to do laundry.

I also have dietary requirements that used to make eating out much more complicated. In the early years, preparing my own meals felt easier than trying to explain everything in restaurants.

What has changed is the region itself. Hotels across South Tyrol and the Dolomites are now exceptionally good at catering for dietary requirements. I can contact a hotel before I arrive, explain what I need, and trust they'll take care of it.

The other thing that changed was me.

After eight hours in the mountains, the last thing I want to do is cook dinner. I'd much rather sit down, enjoy a great meal and relax.

These days we almost always choose hotels with half board. Breakfast is taken care of. Dinner is taken care of. The only thing we have to think about is enjoying the mountains.

We Learned the Value of Staying in One Base

This is probably the biggest change we've made.

During our early trips we moved around because we wanted to see everything. We'd change hotels halfway through, spend time packing and unpacking, and lose valuable mornings driving instead of hiking.

Now we choose one base and stay for around ten days.

That gives us enough time to enjoy our planned hikes, adapt if the weather changes, fit in a rest day when we need one and take day trips to neighbouring valleys without constantly moving accommodation.

It also allows us to get to know a place. By the middle of the trip you know your favourite café, recognise familiar faces at your hotel and begin to feel like you're living there rather than simply ticking it off a list.

It's one of the biggest reasons I now encourage visitors to slow down rather than trying to see everything. If you'd like to do the same, my guide on How to Experience the Dolomites Without Rushing is a great place to start.

I Started Choosing Hikes That Matched My Fitness

This lesson probably took me the longest to learn.

I used to choose hikes because they looked impressive on a map.

Somewhere during the hike I'd realise I had overestimated my ability and underestimated the trail.

The problem wasn't the hike.

The problem was choosing it for the wrong reasons.

Now I build every hiking trip gradually. We begin with easier walks while our legs adjust, then work towards the more demanding hikes later in the holiday.

I've also stopped worrying about whether a hike is considered "iconic" or "hard enough."

Some of my favourite days in the Dolomites have been on easy trails with spectacular scenery.

I no longer feel like I need to prove anything.

The mountains don't care.

If you're looking for beautiful walks without long or difficult hikes, you'll probably enjoy my Easy Dolomites Guide.

We Pack Very Differently Now

Our suitcase looks very different today than it did in 2010.

Back then we packed for summer.

Now we pack for the mountains.

Warm layers, waterproofs and proper footwear come on every trip regardless of the forecast. Mountain weather changes incredibly quickly, and I'd much rather carry an extra layer all day than wish I'd brought one.

I've put together a free Dolomites Packing Checklist with everything I now take on every trip.

What Has Never Changed

Despite everything we've changed, the reason we keep coming back hasn't changed at all.

We still return every year.

We still get excited on that first morning.

We still find new places we've never seen before.

The trips look different now than they did in 2010. We're more comfortable, better prepared and far less likely to end up cold or on the wrong trail.

But the feeling is exactly the same.

The Dolomites still gives us something we've never quite found anywhere else.

And if you'd like a personalised itinerary built around your pace, fitness level and travel style, I'd love to help. You can learn more about my Dolomites Trip Planning Service here.